Friday, May 4, 2012

Every little movement.......... make on a mat is for a purpose. When it all comes together it almost feels like the mat does not exist anymore and it is just you on your belly flying along the surface of the water. There ain't no other way of catching waves that can deliver that sensation and I just love it! Body surfing gets close but you don't get the speed, the glide or that special degree of feedback on what the surface of the wave is doing that a mat provides.
Apart from the 2 days I have to work each week during the semester, I have been surfing pretty well everyday for about three weeks now as we are well into the Autumn surfing season. The mainly offshore wind drops off, there is plenty of swell and it is a wonderful, wonderful time of the year here on the South Coast of WA.
Today, I was surfing around the bay in front of the inlet. There was a solid right hander coming through that linked to another good solid section before carrying through in to a few very useful reforms providing most enjoyable rides for a good 100 metres or so.
I experienced a little deja vu today as the wave was working so well I was connecting through the reforms with just a dip of the head. I remember watching in fascination as Warren Pfieffer used his head in exactly the same manner late in the Musica Surfica footage that you can view here if you haven't already seen it. Interestingly, Warren will be accompanying Musica Surfica director Mick Sowry in the next few weeks on another finless surfing adventure to Gnaraloo reef in the North West of WA. Now that is a serious wave, so it will be very interesting to see how he goes. There could be a few massive beatings I suspect!!!!