Wednesday, December 5, 2012
Out of my way!
The opportunity for sessions have been a litle meager of late but I usually manage to get a couple in each week. Last Sunday there was a small but quite shapely little wave at the point in the afternoon. I was sharing the left with one of the young short board guns Austin whose Dad, Paul, I often get the opportunity to surf with also. Paul rides pretty well everything and a few years ago contested the national longboard championships. Also sharing the line up, and going right mostly, were a Nameless Dreadlocked Shortboarder, I have often seen in the lineup, and his girlfriend. A great matting moment occurred for me on the one right I chose to to ride that day. Both the girlfriend of the NDS and I went to take off with yours truly on the inside. I called her off it, which she either chose to ignore, or was unable to respond to, as she was a little slow to pop up and consequently, we both found ourselves on the wave. As she was basically still heading on down the face, without really thinking about it, I whipped up above and around behind her and on down the line enjoying a very pleasant little ride. The speed differential between us was quite extraordinary but even more so was the mat's ability to instantly turn on the speed in order to complete the maneuver without my being aware of quite how it occurred. It was almost like I merely used some sort of thought control? Eerie, but yet another mat riding peak moment nonetheless!