Invariably, when I am looking for a pic that shows what I want to describe in a post it is one of Prana that ends up being used and here we go again.
So I am out yesterday in turbulent and very lumpy onshore conditions with one of the local shortboarders. We have an interesting history as the first time I came across him in the line up the relationship did not commence at all well! Find out more here! Anyway, relations are much improved now as he ended up becoming one of Michelle's students. We have both got to know him quite well and although still an arrogant little, well quite big and beefy now, kid he always approaches us for a chat about the the conditions or how the session went that day. Anyway, we are sharing these big and beefy conditions, and I have a primary plan of waiting to see if the left I had spied occasionally coming through would appear. The sets look promising as they lift but as is so often the case they were catching up with the smaller waves and fattening out much of the time precluding the opportunity to actually take off. Every now and then though a takable wave would occur and this one was going left so I am on to it and the face just opened up beautifully and quite steeply ahead of me. I would have had exactly the same look on my dial as Prana has! Now I have to say, that had I been standing up on a board, I would not have been quite so raring to go, but my confidence on the Standard is now such that I am positively frothing at the mouth to experience what the wave has to offer, knowing that the mat is fast and manoeuvrable enough to get out of trouble. It was a cracker of a ride too and I would count it amongst the 3 best mat rides I have experienced to date. I can't describe it really but look at the pic above imagine the wave is a little bigger and that it is twisting around a lot more with plenty of sand picked up in it also.
Jolly good fun! Oh and Morgan was not having such a good time of it! What would you choose to ride in those conditions?