Friday, April 27, 2012
That's a nifty little thing you've got there!
My reply you ask?
"Yes, a little more sophisticated than a surfboard".
Not quite sure where that came from but it seemed to be freely accepted and damn it felt good! I guess it had been clear that the 4GF Standard and I were handling the slightly challenging conditions a little better than the hard board brethren that also shared the peak. In fact one of them happened to mention during the session, that he had a better time yesterday when the swell was a little smaller and the waves were not quite so fast and critical. Today, there were also towering sets regularly making their way through the line up resulting in a degree of mayhem. It was fun for me.
Postscript: During the session today, I paid a little more attention to what I was doing going left and it turns out I am performing a half superman. Left arm thrown back and the right manipulating the front corner as required. It was sure as hell working today when it got a bit sucky which the left was doing as it hit the shallow sandbank. I got two other superb lefts on the occasional set waves that peeled through maintaining absolutely perfect shape. I was able to hold the mat back high on the face in perfect position and that is a sensational feeling. I love Autumn!