Monday, December 27, 2010

Damn good to be on the mat again today!

Sick of stand up surfing, I was determined to take out a mat today and after a frustrating start and a move a little further around the bay I was well rewarded.
The wave was actually going right rather than left and similarly full initially but if you could get through to the inside a playground awaited with reforms aplenty walling up. The last wave was the best with a great take off generating plenty of speed to catch a couple of really great reforms with plenty of quite vertical face to aim for before a long glide all the way in to the shallows. Bloody good fun and damn I am stoked to be a mat rider!

2 comments:

  1. I get so stoked off your stoke to mate.

    STOOOOOOOOOOOOOKED!!!!

    G

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  2. Cheers G! Glad to be a portal to mat love!

    ReplyDelete