With apologies to Mark Thomson!........and a welcome added tranquility!
It has changed! It has definitely changed for me this whole getting in the ocean and riding waves thing I am so keen to do.
Since I made the complete transistion from "surfer" to "waverider" a year ago when I purchased a bodyboard and latterly more so with the purchase of a surf mat, I think I may have evolved to some degree!
I have discovered that I am far more inclined to accept a less than perfect wave before I decide to get in to the ocean to enjoy catching and riding it!
Whilst others fume, stomp heartily on the surface of this wonderful planet of ours and exclaim "It is shit!" I am thinking "Oh yes, I can see a bit of face on that I can enjoy that on the bodyboard" or "Yep there is a pretty reasonable reform there that I can hook up to on the longboard"
Now with the recent addition of the surf mat and following the actual acquisition of at least some degree of mat skills I look forward to thinking "Oh yeh cranking take off, bit of face and reforms, perfect for the mat!"
A nice post on the philosophy of surf, Ramsnake.
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